…well I guess that is a relative term. It feels like that for me, here gluing on the interleaven sheets for all the prints for my 1st edition of the pinhole book. The prints are in the upper right hand corner. In the lower right hand corner are the tissue sheets I am using. I was running low on Light Impression tissue and decided to use tracing paper instead. I had a pad of 9×12 inch Utrecht tracing paper which, when I cut it in half worked perfectly. Now it is not as sexy as the Light Impression paper with its watermarks and heavier feel, but I think it will do nicely. The one tool I had not previously used was the retractable blade razor knife. I have now used it working on all the Japanese stab binding books I have discussed here, and I have found that it comes in extremely handy. I love how I can break off the blade with a pair of pliers, and get a new, sharp one. I also like the fact that the blade is retractable. I am pretty good about always pulling it back into the handle when I put it down.
I am continuing my ‘dialog’ with John Wittmann of Strahmore about the unevenness of the sheet length I noticed in their 8×10 inch Drawing pad sheets. This is a snapshot side view of the finished edges of the paper, with the opposite [perforated] edges even. I use the perforated edges of the sheets to make my spines, and I think the spine needs to be even since in a stab binding book it is exposed when sitting on the shelf. If I lived in the ‘big city’ I could take the stack of prints to a copy shop and have them guillotine the pages, but for me that is a 120 mile round trip, and not worth it. So, for the time being, I will live with it. In fairness to Strathmore, I am probably the only person who takes issue with this. Coming from photography and not drawing, I am used to having my photo paper, be it silver gelatin or inkjet, all be exactly the same size.